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Will a bar of soap in your woollens drawer keep moths away?

Two bars of Lavender Handmade Soap

A customer asked me this recently, and I thought it was a very good question. Can a bar of soap tucked in with your jumpers keep the moths away? Well, while I’d love to tell you that my soap can keep you clean AND act as security detail for your knitwear, I certainly wouldn’t trust it with your favourite cardigan.

Two bars of Lavender Handmade Soap

I AM an advocate for popping a bar of lovely smelling soap into your drawers – it keeps the bars dry and away from sunlight, and has the added bonus of making your clothes smell lovely. But no, I wouldn’t rely on soap for moth protection.

Surely lavender soap can help keep moths at bay?

Lavender has a long history of being tucked into drawers and wardrobes. English Heritage are experts in keeping old fabrics safe, and according to them, dried lavender sachets can help repel adult clothes moths (although the effect is temporary and they don’t affect larvae already in clothing).

But a lavender sachet and a bar of lavender soap aren’t the same thing, and I couldn’t find any reliable evidence that scented bar of soap probably could release enough of the right compounds to protect your woollens.

So, lovely scent? Certainly. A great reason to pop a bar in a drawer. Guaranteed cardigan bodyguard? Sadly, no.

Who’s actually eating your jumper?

Here’s the slightly unpleasant bit: it’s the clothes moth larvae that eat the fibres, rather than the adult moths. The adults lay eggs, and the resulting larvae help themselves to your woollens. Which means that even something that discourages adults won’t necessarily stop an existing problem. Tiny squatters with expensive tastes!

A few practical habits are more useful than giving your soap an extra job on the side:

What does helps protect woollens?

  • Put clothes away clean and completely dry. Food marks and perspiration make fabrics more appealing to clothes moth larvae. Follow the garment’s care instructions.
  • Vacuum drawers and wardrobes, including corners and crevices where fluff collects.
  • Use well-sealed bags or airtight boxes for longer-term storage, starting with clean, pest-free clothes.
  • Check occasionally, especially inside folds and seams, for holes, larvae or silky webbing.

If you find signs of moths, deal with the affected clothes and clean the storage area. Adding a nice smell won’t solve it. Clothes moth pheromone traps can help you spot activity, but they aren’t a complete treatment.

And the soap?

If you enjoy keeping a bar in your drawer for the scent, go ahead. Use a dry bar and keep it in a breathable paper wrapper or sachet, away from direct contact with your clothes.

Just don’t put it in charge of moth prevention, it hasn’t done the training 😉

Vicki x

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Isn’t solid soap a bit old-fashioned?

A bar of soapy Blue Slate Soap in a wooden soap dish

Day 14 of Blogtober, and time to address a common misconception…

It’s a question I’ve heard more than once, and I can understand why people brought up on liquid soap and shower gels might think bars of soap are old-fashioned.  For some, bar soap conjures up memories of a slightly grubby bar sitting in a puddle beside Auntie Nora’s bathroom sink, while modern bathrooms are filled with sleek, beautifully designed plastic bottles of liquid handwash and gels.

However, I think solid soap is one of the most modern choices you can make for your bathroom. Yes, I realise that that is exactly what you might expect me to say, as someone who makes soap for a living. But consider this…

Are plastic bottles really progress?

Somewhere along the way, we seem to have decided that putting soap into a plastic bottle made it better.  More modern, more sophisticated, more convenient.  (and even I can grudgingly admit that soap in pump bottles might perhaps be quite convenient).

But think about what we’re actually doing. We’re buying a bottle, using the contents, and then, in most cases, disposing of the packaging and buying another one.

And another.

And another.

All for a product that does essentially the same job as a bar of soap.

Less packaging, less waste

One of the biggest advantages of solid soap is that it doesn’t need a plastic bottle.  A bar can be packaged in a simple paper wrapper or cardboard box, avoiding the need for another plastic container and pump mechanism.

And while recycling is important, avoiding unnecessary packaging in the first place is even better.

Then there’s the water.

Liquid handwash and shower gel generally contain a substantial amount of water as part of their formulation. Solid soap contains very little, which means you’re not buying and transporting quite so much water along with your cleaning product.

In fact, research comparing different handwashing methods has found that bar soap can have a lower environmental impact than liquid soap in several important categories, including greenhouse gas emissions.

Of course, no product is completely without environmental impact, and ingredients, manufacturing, packaging and how we use a product all matter.  But when it comes to reducing single-use plastic in the bathroom, solid soap is a clear winner.

Old-fashioned doesn’t mean outdated

Here’s another thought. Just because something has been around for hundreds of years, does that mean it needs replacing?  We still use plates, books, bicycles and wooden spoons.  Nobody’s suggesting we need to reinvent the spoon simply because it’s been doing a perfectly good job for centuries.

Some things have stuck around because they work.  And traditional soap is one of them.  The technology might be old, but the reasons for choosing it can be thoroughly modern.

Reducing packaging. Being more thoughtful about what we buy. Choosing products that do their job without creating unnecessary waste. Those aren’t outdated ideas. Quite the opposite.

But what about the soggy soap?

Ah yes. The dreaded soggy soap. This is probably one of the biggest complaints I hear about using a bar, and the solution is wonderfully straightforward.  I know, I’m like a broken record but:

Give your soap somewhere to drain and dry between uses!

A decent draining soap dish or soap ladder makes a huge difference. Keep the bar out of standing water and away from the direct shower spray, and it’ll last much better.  And if you use a washcloth or loofah in the shower, you can work up a lovely lather without keeping the bar under running water.

I’m not suggesting everyone should throw away their liquid soap tomorrow – that would rather defeat the object of trying to reduce waste, wouldn’t it?   But when your current bottle runs out, perhaps consider whether you actually need to replace it with another bottle.   A lovely bar of soap could do exactly the same job 😉

A bar of soapy Blue Slate Soap in a wooden soap dish

It can smell gorgeous, feel lovely to use, look beautiful beside your sink and help you avoid another piece of disposable packaging.

(Oh, and if you already have a refillable dispenser that you love, that is a perfectly reasonable way to cut down on single-use packaging. PROVIDED  you take it to an eco-friendly refill store to, well… refill).

So is solid soap old-fashioned?

Well, the method of making it certainly has a long history.  But choosing a practical, effective product that helps reduce unnecessary plastic waste?  I’d call that pretty modern, actually.

And finally, when all’s said and done, if being old-fashioned means enjoying a gorgeous bar of handmade soap instead of buying yet another plastic bottle? Well, actually, I’m very happy to be old-fashioned.

Vicki x

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Confessions from a Soapmaker’s Soap Dish

Three bars of soap in a wooden soap dish

It’s Day 13 of Blogtober, and after a VERY busy day running soapmaking workshops all day yesterday, today’s post is a very quick one.

Ever wondered what soap a soapmaker actually uses at home? Well, wonder no more, because today I’m giving you an exclusive peek at our own bathroom soap dishes.

First up, the bathroom sink dish. Heavily autumn-themed, as you can see. 😁

Three bars of soap in a wooden soap dish

Most of the time, I use end pieces or wonky, slightly undersized bars, but when I’m launching seasonal specials, I usually pinch one full bar of each fragrance for photography, reels and other bits and pieces.

So at the moment, we’ve got Hocus Pocus, Campfire Marshmallow and Maple & Elm.

Nothing beautifully arranged or Instagram-worthy here. Just real soap, being used in a real bathroom, by someone who happens to make rather a lot of the stuff. And yes, I do often find myself assessing the lather or sniffing the fragrance rather than simply getting on with washing. Occupational hazard. 😉

And then there’s THIS soap dish, on the side of the bath. This is where the bars go to enjoy their retirement once they’ve been reduced to roughly half their original size.

Wooden soap dish with lots of small slivers of different soaps

They’re still absolutely fine for using in the shower, and they do get used every day, but before too long they’ll be entering their third and final era. Into the exfoliating sisal bag they’ll go, all lumped together, so that every last little scrap gets used up.

Three stages of a soap bar’s life. Who knew there was such a thing as a soap retirement plan? 😂

So there you have it. A little glimpse behind the scenes, and photographic evidence that even a soapmaker’s soap dish isn’t always ready for its close-up 🫣

Vicki x

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The Best Scents for Relaxation (According to Science!)

A tin of lavender body cream

Just imagine. You’ve finally finished the day’s to-do list (or at least shoved it under a cushion where it can’t glare at you), you’ve got a warm bath waiting, a proper bar of soap at the ready, and the scent drifting through the air makes your shoulders drop an inch.

Lovely, isn’t it?

But have you ever wondered why certain fragrances make you feel calmer, happier or more relaxed?

It’s not necessarily just your imagination. Our sense of smell is closely connected to parts of the brain involved in emotion and memory, which helps explain why a particular fragrance can instantly remind us of a person, a place or a happy moment.

And researchers have been investigating whether some scents might actually help us feel less stressed.

The results are interesting, although it’s worth remembering that aromatherapy isn’t a miracle cure, and what one person finds wonderfully relaxing might make somebody else wrinkle their nose in disgust.

So, here are five fragrances worth exploring when you fancy a little downtime.

1. Lavender: The classic calmer

If relaxation had a mascot, it would probably be lavender.

It’s one of the most widely studied fragrances in aromatherapy, and some research suggests that inhaling lavender essential oil may help reduce feelings of anxiety and promote relaxation.

There have even been studies involving patients awaiting medical procedures, where lavender aromatherapy has been associated with reduced anxiety.

Does that mean one sniff will instantly send you off to sleep? Sadly not. But if you enjoy lavender, incorporating the fragrance into your evening routine might help make bedtime feel a little more peaceful.

How to enjoy it

A tin of lavender body cream
Luxury Body Cream – Lavender

And if you’ve got time for all three, well, that sounds like a perfectly reasonable way to spend an evening.

2. Sweet orange: Sunshine for the soul

There’s something wonderfully cheerful about the smell of freshly peeled oranges.

Bright, juicy and uplifting, it’s the sort of fragrance that reminds me of sunshine, even when the weather outside is doing its usual North Wales thing.

Interestingly, researchers have investigated sweet orange essential oil in stressful situations, including dental appointments.

Some small studies have reported lower anxiety levels among people exposed to orange fragrance, although the results aren’t consistent enough to guarantee the same effect for everyone.

Still, if citrus fragrances make you feel cheerful, that’s reason enough to enjoy them.

How to enjoy it:

  • Start the morning with a citrus-scented soap in the shower.
  • Use a suitable citrus fragrance in a diffuser, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Choose a bright, fruity fragrance when you need a little pick-me-up.

I can’t promise it’ll make a Monday morning feel like a holiday in the Mediterranean, but it’s worth a try.

3. Rose: A little floral comfort

Rose is one of those fragrances that people seem to have very strong feelings about. Some adore its rich, romantic floral scent. Others associate it with old-fashioned perfumes or their grandmother’s dressing table.

Personally, I think a good rose fragrance can be absolutely gorgeous.

Rose essential oil has also been studied for its possible effects on stress and anxiety. Some small studies have produced encouraging results, although more research is needed before we can draw firm conclusions.

For me, rose is a lovely example of how fragrance can be comforting simply because of the memories and associations we attach to it.

How to enjoy it:

  • Treat yourself to a rose-scented bath.
  • Use a rose-scented soap for a slow, leisurely wash.
  • Enjoy a rose-scented room spray designed for use around the home.

And if rose reminds you of somebody special, that little trip down memory lane might be the nicest part of all.

Two bars of rose scented handmade soap
Rose Handmade Soap

4. Sandalwood: The grounding one

Unlike bright citrus or sweet floral fragrances, sandalwood has a warm, woody scent that many people find comforting. It’s rich, smooth and earthy, making it a popular choice for perfumes, soaps and home fragrances.

There has been some research into sandalwood and its effects on mood and alertness, but the evidence for its ability to reduce stress is still quite limited.

That doesn’t mean it can’t be part of a relaxing routine, of course. Sometimes it’s simply about choosing a fragrance that makes you feel comfortable and settled.

How to enjoy it:

  • Choose a sandalwood-scented soap for your evening shower.
  • Enjoy a suitable woody home fragrance while reading.
  • Pair the scent with a little quiet time, away from your phone and the never-ending to-do list.

Especially useful if your brain is doing that thing where it has approximately 27 tabs open, and at least three of them are playing music.

5. Bergamot: Calm meets uplifting

If you’re an Earl Grey tea drinker, you’ll already be familiar with bergamot. It’s a citrus fruit with a distinctive fragrance that’s fresh, slightly floral and a little more sophisticated than straightforward orange or lemon.

Bergamot essential oil has been investigated in several small aromatherapy studies, some of which have reported improvements in mood or feelings of stress. Again, the evidence is promising rather than conclusive, but it’s an interesting fragrance to explore.

What I particularly like about bergamot is that it combines beautifully with other scents, including lavender, woody fragrances and other citrus notes.

How to enjoy it:

  • Choose a bergamot-scented soap for a refreshing shower.
  • Enjoy a cup of Earl Grey while taking five minutes to yourself.
  • Use a suitably formulated bergamot home fragrance while reading or relaxing.

And if you do opt for the Earl Grey, I’d strongly recommend a biscuit to go with it. Entirely for scientific purposes, obviously.

A little science, a lot of comfort

So, can fragrance genuinely help us relax? Possibly, yes.

Research into aromatherapy has produced some encouraging findings, particularly for lavender, and there is evidence that certain aromas may influence how people experience stress and anxiety.

But studies vary in quality, and the results don’t mean that every lavender soap, rose bath or bergamot candle will produce a measurable physiological effect.

There’s also the very personal side of fragrance to consider. A scent that reminds you of a lovely holiday, your childhood home or somebody you love might make you smile before you’ve even consciously worked out why. That’s one of the things I find so fascinating about our sense of smell.

Of course, you don’t need scientific research to give yourself permission to enjoy a relaxing bath or a lovely-smelling shower. Taking a little time for yourself is worthwhile in its own right.

Try this tonight

Here’s a suggestion for a little evening relaxation that doesn’t involve booking a spa day, spending a fortune or leaving the house.

Run yourself a comfortably warm bath.

Add a little of your favourite Foaming Bath Sprinkles, following the instructions on the packaging. Put your phone somewhere you can’t absent-mindedly reach for it. Lower yourself into the water, get comfortable and spend some time simply enjoying the warmth and fragrance.

No emails. No laundry. No mentally writing tomorrow’s shopping list. Just ten or fifteen minutes when nobody needs anything from you.

And if you’re not a bath person, a lovely-smelling shower followed by a fabulous smelling body cream and a few minutes with a book or a panad can be just as enjoyable.

The important thing isn’t creating the perfect relaxation routine. It’s finding small moments of pleasure that fit into your actual life. Because while fragrance can’t make your problems disappear, it can certainly make an ordinary moment feel a little more special.

And sometimes that’s exactly what you need.

Vicki x

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Why I Don’t Describe my Soap as ‘Natural’

Two Bars of Spiced Golden Pear Handmade Soap
Two bars of Spiced Golden Pear Soap Handmade Soap and a facecloth

Last year, a woman came up to my stall at one of the Christmas markets and asked:

“Are all these soaps natural, yeah?” 

My response was “Well, it depends what you mean by natural”, hoping that would open up a conversation about ingredients etc. But no, she gave me a disdainful look and walked away, mumbling something about only using natural stuff…

Here at The Soap Mine you won’t ever find me describing my bars as ‘natural’, which might seem a little odd for a business making soap from lovely oils and butters.  So why’s that then?

What does ‘natural’ actually mean?

Well, that’s the problem, really.  Ask ten people what they mean by natural skincare and you might get ten different answers.

  • Does it mean every ingredient comes directly from a plant?
  • Does it mean nothing has been manufactured or processed?
  • Does it mean a product contains no synthetic ingredients?
  • Or does it simply mean something that feels wholesome and environmentally friendly?

It’s a word that sounds reassuring, but without a clear explanation it doesn’t tell you very much about what’s actually inside a product, and there IS no industry-standard definition of the word.

Natural doesn’t automatically mean better

I know I bang on about this quite a lot, but it’s worth repeating.  Just because something comes from nature doesn’t automatically make it harmless, gentle or suitable for everyone’s skin.

Poison ivy is natural. So are stinging nettles.  Essential oils, lovely as they can be, contain naturally occurring fragrance compounds that some people are sensitive or even allergic to.  Equally, an ingredient made in a laboratory shouldn’t be something to be frightened of.  What actually matters is what the ingredient is, how it’s used and whether it’s suitable for the finished product.

Soap itself is the result of chemistry

Traditional soap is made through a chemical reaction between oils or fats and an alkali. I start with oils and butters such as olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter and cocoa butter, then combine them with a carefully calculated sodium hydroxide solution. That sodium hydroxide has been created in a lab, and 99.9% of makers* of solid soap** in the land use it.

The resulting reaction, called saponification, transforms those ingredients into soap and glycerine.  Which means the finished soap is not simply a mixture of untouched plant oils in their ‘natural’ state

It’s a brand new product, created through chemistry.  And that’s an important distinction because rubbing olive oil and cocoa butter onto your hands wouldn’t have quite the same cleansing effect!

I’d rather tell you what’s actually in it

Some of my soaps are scented with essential oils, others with fragrance oils.  I use cosmetic-grade colourants, usually mica, to create the designs. My soaps are vegan-friendly and palm-free, and I formulate them using carefully chosen oils and butters.

These are specific things I can explain.  I’d much rather tell you exactly what I use and why, than rely on a broad description that could mean something different to every customer.

Oh and while we’re here, there’s no such thing as ‘chemical-free’ soap either.  Water is a chemical. Oxygen is a chemical. Everything around us is made of chemicals.

So when I describe my soap, I prefer to talk about the ingredients, how it’s made and what you can expect from it.  It might not sound quite as romantic as promising something completely natural and chemical-free. But it’s waaay more accurate.

And I’d rather give you accurate information than a lovely-sounding claim that doesn’t really mean anything.

Vicki x

*There is a tiny group of niche soapmaker who make their own lye from ashes, but it’s extremely difficult to get certification to sell the soaps made from it as it’s difficult to ensure uniformity of product. If a soapmaker is making their own lye, believe me, it will be their USP and you’ll know about it – they’ll be shouting it from the rooftops. In all my years making soap I’ve never found anyone certified to sell soap made with lye they’ve created themselves.

**Liquid soapmakers use potassium hydroxide rather than sodium hydroxide, but the point still stands – the potassium hydroxide is created in a lab.

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Does handmade soap contain lye?

Here’s a question that comes up quite often when people discover how traditional soap is made.

“Does your soap contain lye?”

The short answer is that I use lye to make my soap, but a properly formulated and fully saponified bar doesn’t contain any free, caustic lye.

And before anyone starts worrying about what they’ve been washing themselves with, let me explain. Because this is one of those occasions when a little understanding of the chemistry makes everything much less alarming.

First of all, what exactly is lye?

Lye is the name commonly given to a strongly alkaline substance or solution used in soapmaking.

For traditional solid soap, the alkali is sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also known as caustic soda. It’s usually supplied as white pellets or flakes, which are dissolved in water before being combined with oils and butters. Sodium hydroxide isn’t some mysterious soapmaking ingredient. It’s widely used in industry, including paper manufacturing, water treatment, food processing and the production of cleaning products.

It also happens to be essential to making traditional solid soap.

For liquid soap, soapmakers generally use a different alkali called potassium hydroxide, which produces softer, more soluble soaps. But here at The Soap Mine, it’s sodium hydroxide that I use to transform my lovely oils and butters into the solid bars you see on the shelves.

Isn’t lye dangerous?

Yes, absolutely. And I’m not going to pretend otherwise. Sodium hydroxide is a highly caustic substance, which means it can cause serious chemical burns if it comes into contact with skin or eyes.

When it’s dissolved in water, the process generates a significant amount of heat, and the resulting solution needs to be handled carefully.

This is why soapmaking isn’t simply a case of throwing a few ingredients into a mixing bowl and hoping for the best.

I work with appropriate protective equipment, including gloves and eye protection, and follow careful procedures for measuring, mixing and handling my ingredients. The sodium hydroxide is always added to the water, never the other way around (that’s super dangerous) and suitable containers (never glass!) ventilation and safe working practices are essential.

It’s a substance that deserves respect. Not fear, but certainly not complacency either. I’ve been making soap for years, and I still take these precautions every single time.

So why use something so caustic to make soap?

Because without a strong alkali, you simply can’t make traditional soap. I could mix olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter and cocoa butter together until the cows came home, but I’d still just have a greasy mixture of oils and butters. To turn those ingredients into soap, they need to undergo a chemical reaction with sodium hydroxide.

And that reaction has a rather wonderful name: Saponification.

What happens during saponification?

This is where the chemistry gets interesting.

Oils and butters are made up largely of substances called triglycerides. These are molecules made from fatty acids joined together by a substance called glycerol (also known as glycerine).

When I combine my oils and butters with a carefully calculated solution of sodium hydroxide, a chemical reaction begins. The triglycerides are broken down, and the fatty acids react to form something completely new: the sodium salts of fatty acids. Which is a very scientific way of saying soap. Glycerine is also produced naturally during the reaction.

In simple terms:

Oils and butters + sodium hydroxide = soap + glycerine

The starting ingredients are chemically transformed into new substances with different properties.

It’s rather like the difference between flour, eggs and a finished cake. The ingredients you start with aren’t necessarily present in the same form once the process is complete. (Although I wouldn’t recommend tasting the soap to test the analogy).

Does that mean there’s no lye left in the finished bar?

Yes, that’s exactly what should happen in a correctly formulated and properly made bar of cold process soap. The sodium hydroxide reacts with the fatty components of the oils and butters during saponification. By the time that reaction is complete, there should be no free, caustic sodium hydroxide remaining.

And here’s an important point: the lye doesn’t evaporate or disappear during curing.

That’s a misconception I see surprisingly often. Sodium hydroxide doesn’t simply evaporate away while the soap sits on a shelf. It is consumed during the chemical reaction that produces soap. In fact, saponification is largely complete within the first day or two of making a normal cold process batch.

The four-to-six-week curing period that follows is mainly about allowing excess water to evaporate and the internal structure of the soap to develop, producing a harder, longer-lasting bar.

I’ve written a separate blog post about why handmade soap needs to cure if you’d like to know more about that part of the process.

Of course, if soap has been incorrectly formulated or badly mixed, it can contain excess lye. That’s why accurate calculations, good manufacturing procedures and proper quality control matter so much. It’s also why I don’t recommend treating soapmaking as an exercise in guesswork.

What about all those strange ingredient names on soap labels?

If you’ve looked at the ingredients on one of my bars of soap, you might have spotted names such as:

  • Sodium Olivate
  • Sodium Cocoate
  • Sodium Shea Butterate
  • Sodium Cocoa Butterate
  • Sodium Castorate

They could sound a bit intimidating, but they’re simply the names of the soaps produced when different oils and butters react with sodium hydroxide. For example, Sodium Olivate is the soap produced from olive oil, while Sodium Cocoate is produced from coconut oil.

Remember that chemical reaction we talked about earlier – saponification? This is the result.

The oils and butters have reacted with sodium hydroxide to form new substances, and those new substances have their own names.

Why don’t I just use the familiar ingredient names?

Because cosmetic labelling in the UK is regulated, and I’m required to provide an ingredient list using recognised cosmetic ingredient names.

These standardised names are commonly called INCI names, which stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

So when you see Sodium Olivate or Sodium Cocoate on my soap labels, I’m not choosing complicated names to make my products sound more scientific, and I’m certainly not trying to bamboozle anybody! I’m just using the recognised names for the saponified ingredients, as required by the labelling specifications for my products.

In fact, standardised ingredient names are intended to make things less confusing, not more. They allow ingredients to be identified consistently across different cosmetic products, regardless of the manufacturer’s preferred descriptions.

They’re particularly important for people who need to check ingredients because of allergies or sensitivities.

So although the ingredient list might look like a collection of rather complicated chemical names, there’s nothing mysterious going on. It’s just the chemistry of soapmaking, written in a language that probably makes much more sense to a cosmetic chemist than to the average person standing in their bathroom. 😂

Why do I think it’s important to explain all this?

Because I think customers deserve to know what’s in the products they’re using, and how those products are made.

I’ve occasionally seen soap advertised as “lye-free”, usually with the implication that this somehow makes it safer, purer or more natural than soap made using sodium hydroxide. But if it’s genuine traditional soap, an alkali was involved somewhere in its manufacture, even if the person selling the finished product didn’t handle it themselves.

Melt-and-pour soap bases, for example, have generally already undergone saponification before the soapmaker buys them. There’s nothing wrong with using a premade base, but it’s misleading to suggest that traditional soap can be made simply by leaving the lye out.

And as I’ve said many times before, I’m not a fan of frightening people with scientific ingredient names or pretending that something becomes inherently safer just because it’s described as natural. EVERYTHING is made of chemicals. What matters is which chemicals we’re talking about, how they’re used and what happens to them during manufacture.

So yes, I use sodium hydroxide to make every bar of traditional cold process soap at The Soap Mine.

I handle it carefully, calculate my recipes accurately and allow every batch to undergo the processes needed to become the finished product. The result isn’t a dangerous mixture of caustic soda and oils. It’s soap. And I still think it’s rather amazing that such ordinary ingredients can undergo a chemical reaction and become something so completely different.

Even after all these years, the chemistry hasn’t lost its magic.

Vicki x

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Is bar soap hygienic?

A foamy bar of Cysur Soap being used.

Yes. For everyday washing at home, a bar of soap is a good, effective choice. You don’t need a pump bottle to get your hands clean. And yet “Is bar soap hygienic?” is one of those questions that keeps coming up.

I understand the thinking. Someone washes their dirty hands with a bar, puts it down, and the next person picks it up. Surely that means they’re passing their germs along? It sounds plausible. But it misses a rather important part of the process: the washing.

True soap is naturally alkaline

Traditional soap, made by combining oils and fats with an alkali, is naturally alkaline. That makes it a less welcoming environment for bacteria to grow in. And bar that can dry between uses also offers less moisture for microbial growth.

So the idea that a properly kept bar is simply a cosy home for germs misses some useful chemistry. Its alkalinity is part of the picture, alongside drying between uses and the washing and rinsing that happen when you use it. Alkaline doesn’t mean sterile, but there’s no need for soap to be sterile to help you get clean.

The soap helps wash germs away

Soap helps loosen dirt and oils, allowing them and microbes to be rinsed away, so finding bacteria on a used bar doesn’t mean those bacteria will remain on the next person’s hands after washing.

In a study published in Epidemiology & Infection, researchers deliberately added two types of bacteria to soap bars at levels far higher than those previously reported on used bars. After people washed with those bars, neither test bacterium was detected on their hands. That’s reassuring evidence for routine handwashing.

And what about the pump bottle?

We often assume liquid soap must be more hygienic because nobody touches the soap itself. But we do touch the pump. Usually with the very hands we’re about to wash. When did you last clean yours, the pump I mean, obvs! No judgement. There are quite enough things on the household jobs list already. 😂

A liquid soap dispenser isn’t automatically germ-free. Research into refillable liquid-soap dispensers has found bacterial contamination, including biofilms on and inside pump heads. That doesn’t mean you should worry about every bottle beside the sink. It does mean that “it comes out of a pump” is by no means a guarantee of better hygiene.

Soap dishes and dispensers both benefit from being kept clean.

A bar is easy to look after

You don’t need an elaborate routine.

Rinse off any visible dirt, keep your bar on a draining dish, and give it a chance to dry between uses. Clean the dish regularly too. Sensible care for something you use every day, and it helps the bar last longer as well.

The important bit is how you wash

Whether you prefer a bar or a bottle, a hurried dab of soap and a quick splash won’t make the most of either. The NHS recommends washing for around 20 seconds, covering all parts of your hands, then rinsing and drying thoroughly.

You could spend those seconds enjoying the scent and luscious lather of a lovely handmade bar.

So, can you use solid soap with confidence?

For ordinary washing at home, yes, absolutely! A well-kept bar, water and a thorough wash make a perfectly practical combination. If you’ve been avoiding solid soap purely because you thought it was unhygienic, please don’t let that be the thing that puts you off.

Choose a bar you enjoy using, give it somewhere to drain, and let it get on with the job.

Lovely soap. Clean hands. Fewer plastic bottles. Sounds like a good arrangement to me. 😉

Vicki x

A foamy bar of Cysur Soap being used.

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How long does a bar of soap last?

One bar of Enfys (rainbow) soap on a soap dish

Someone on Threads asked me a very reasonable question:

“If I only used a bar of soap for handwashing, say six times a day, how long would it last?”

My first thought was: how long is a piece of string? Which is spectacularly unhelpful, I know. But even with the number of washes supplied, there are a few more things I’d need to know before offering anything resembling an accurate answer.

How big is the bar?

A little guest soap and a full-sized bar aren’t starting with the same amount of soap. “One bar” is a bit like “one slice of cake”. There are slices, and then there are slices.

What’s the soap like?

Different recipes produce bars that behave very differently in water. The oils used, the formulation and how long the soap has cured can all affect how quickly it wears down. So even two bars of the exact same weight, but from different makers, won’t necessarily last the same length of time.

How much soap do you use each time?

Do you rub the bar just long enough to get soap onto your hands, put it down and carry on washing? Or does the bar stay in your hands for the whole performance? Both count as “one wash”, but they can use quite different amounts of soap. I’m not suggesting you shorten your handwashing. Just that once you’ve got enough soap, the bar can sit that bit out.

What’s your water like?

Hard water makes it harder to build a lather, which may mean you use more soap each time. Same bar, same number of washes, different water: potentially a different lifespan.

What happens between washes?

This is a big one. A bar on a draining dish, away from splashes, gets a chance to dry. A bar sitting in a puddle keeps softening even while nobody’s using it. You might only wash your hands six times a day, but your soap could be spending the other twenty-three-and-a-bit hours quietly turning to mush. Not the way it should be spending its free time.

How many people use the bar?

Six washes a day for you is one thing. Six washes for you, plus everyone else who wanders past the sink, is another. Soap does not keep a visitors’ book. The children may have been involved.

So what’s the answer?

I can’t reliably turn “six washes a day” into a particular number of days or weeks. And even if I had answers to all the questions above, It would be difficult to even hazard a guess, there are so many factors involved. So the simplest way to find out is to note when you start a bar and see how long it lasts in your household. That gives you a useful guide for the next similar bar, used in the same way.

In the meantime, give it a draining dish, keep it out of standing water, and put it down once you’ve got enough soap on your hands.

I can make the soap. I can’t supervise its living arrangements. 😉

Vicki x

One bar of Enfys (rainbow) soap on a soap dish
Enfys / Rainbow

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Can you use a Bar of Soap in the Shower?

Some of you are going to look at that heading and think I’ve lost my mind, because lots of us have been using solid soap in the shower forever, but you’d be surprised how often I’m asked this question. The answer, of course, is always YES! A bar of soap isn’t just for washing hands at the basin. You can absolutely use it to wash your body in the shower too.

Maple & Elm handmade soap and a loofah

If you’ve always used shower gel, it might feel like a slightly unfamiliar way to wash, but there’s nothing complicated or weird about it (despite what some people seem to think 😝 After all, shower gels in plastic bottles are actually a fairly modern concept, in the great scheme of things.

How do you use it?

You have a few options, depending on what you prefer.

Use your hands. Wet your hands and the bar, work up some lather, then put the soap down and wash your skin with your soapy hands.

Use the bar directly. Gently glide it over wet skin, put it down once you have enough soap, then use your hands to spread the lather and wash.

Use a washcloth or loofah. Wet it first, rub the soap over it and work up a lather before washing. Rinse it thoroughly afterwards and leave it somewhere it can dry.

None of these methods is compulsory. Choose whichever feels easiest and most enjoyable for you.

Do you need lots of bubbles?

You don’t need to produce a mountain of foam before you can wash. You can use just nough soap to spread over the areas you’re washing, then rinse thoroughly. However there is something lovely about lots of luscious lather and foam. It’s all down to your personal preference.

If you live in a hard-water area, building a lather can take a little more effort, and a washcloth or loofah may help you work up the bubbles. Don’t worry though, fewer bubbles or less lather doesn’t mean your soap is any less effective.

Where should you keep the bar?

I can’t stress this enough: keep your soap somewhere it can drain and dry between showers.

A draining soap dish, ladder or suitable shower rack can work well. The important thing is that the bar isn’t sitting in collected water.

Keep it out of the direct spray too. Water running over the bar will wash soap away even when you’re not using it.

And once you have enough soap on your hands or cloth, you can put the bar down. It doesn’t need to stay under the water for the whole shower.

What about a soap saver bag?

I recommend those for the last little slivers, so you can use up every bit. For a full-sized bar, a draining soap dish is my preference. Leaving it inside a damp bag can keep it wet and encourage it to soften.

A small change to your routine

If you enjoy shower gel, using a bar may simply be something you haven’t considered. It’s worth trying if you’d like to reduce your single use plastic consumption, or might enjoy the choice of fragrances and designs a handmade bar offers.

Choose a soap that suits your skin and your preferences, use it in whichever way works for you, and give it somewhere sensible to dry.

That’s really all there is to it. Your lovely bar is for all washing opportunities, not just the bathroom sink 😉

Vicki x

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Why does handmade soap need to cure?

Buckle up for Day 6 of Blogtober!

It looks like soap. It smells like soap. So why won’t I let you have it yet?

Because looking finished and being ready to leave the workshop are two different things. Rather like me putting my coat on, then remembering fourteen things I need to do before I can actually leave the house.

What does “curing” mean?

First of all, let’s clear up what curing isn’t.

Soap is not slowly “turning into soap” for four to six weeks. The chemical reaction between the oils, butters and sodium hydroxide, known as saponification, is largely complete within the first 24 to 36 hours after I pour the soap into the mould.

Curing is what happens afterwards.

During the curing period, excess water gradually evaporates from the bars. At the same time, the internal structure of the soap continues to develop and become more crystalline. The result is a harder, longer-lasting bar with better lather and a more refined feel when you use it.

When soap is first cut, it is still quite soft, largely because of its water content. Water is an essential part of the soapmaking process because I combine my oils and butters with a solution of sodium hydroxide and water to make the soap. But we don’t want all of that water to remain in the finished bar.

A soft bar of soap simply won’t last very long in your bathroom. It will wear away much more quickly, which is no good for you and no good for your hard-earned money either. So, while the bars are curing, water is slowly evaporating and they become firmer and harder. The structure of the soap continues to develop too, helping to improve the lather and the overall performance of the finished bar.

That cure time is what allows the soap to become the product I actually want you to use.

And just to clear up another common misconception: curing isn’t about waiting for sodium hydroxide to “evaporate”. That isn’t how the chemistry works.

How do I cure my bars?

Once I’ve unmoulded and cut a batch of soap, the individual bars spend around four to six weeks curing before they are ready for sale.

Over the years I’ve collected hundreds of plastic stacking baskets for the job. Before I start cutting, I line enough baskets with tissue paper, then place each freshly cut bar inside with space around it so that air can circulate freely.

I usually fit two loaves’ worth of soap into each basket, and every basket is labelled with the soap variety, its batch code and the date it will be ready to use.

A basket of curing soap

The baskets are then stacked away and left to do what soap does best at this stage: very little, very slowly.

How curing affects the weight of a bar

As the bars cure and lose water, they naturally lose some weight too. A commonly quoted rule of thumb is that a bar may lose around 10% of its original weight during curing, but in practice that can vary quite a bit from batch to batch.

That means I need to allow for that weight loss when I cut and cure the bars, so that once they are ready for sale they still meet the minimum weight stated on the packaging.

For many years I labelled my bars as 100g, but because curing isn’t completely predictable, I would occasionally end up with perfectly good finished bars weighing 98g or 99g. Technically, that meant I couldn’t sell them as 100g bars.

These days I label them as a minimum of 95g instead. I haven’t made the bars any smaller or changed the recipe, and most still weigh more than 100g when they are ready for sale. The 95g minimum simply gives me a sensible margin for the natural variation that happens during curing.

Why not sell it sooner?

Because I want you to receive a bar that performs properly, rather than one that has been rushed out of the workshop before it is ready. Admittedly, this can make stock planning rather interesting. If a particular variety suddenly becomes very popular, I can’t simply make another batch today and have it back on the shelf tomorrow. Every new batch still needs its full cure time.

That can occasionally mean a favourite soap is out of stock for a while, but shortening the curing period isn’t a compromise I’m willing to make. Waiting those extra weeks gives you a harder, longer-lasting bar that is properly ready to be used.

Why doesn’t commercially made soap need a long cure?

Commercial soap is usually produced very differently from traditional cold-process soap, which is why it can often be made, packaged and sent out much more quickly.

Mechanical processing: Many factory-made soaps are processed using heavy machinery that removes moisture and compresses the soap into a dense, hard bar. Milled soaps may be passed through rollers several times before being pressed into their final shape, so they don’t rely on weeks of air-drying to become firm.

Different formulations: Commercial bars contain ingredients designed to give them hardness, stability and a long shelf life. Some are technically detergent-based cleansing bars rather than traditional soap, so the manufacturing process is completely different from cold-process soapmaking.

Glycerin may be removed: During some large-scale soapmaking processes, the naturally produced glycerin is separated from the soap and used elsewhere. Because glycerin attracts and holds water, removing some or all of it also changes the moisture content and behaviour of the finished bar.

Handmade cold-process soap, on the other hand, is usually left much closer to the state it naturally reaches after saponification, so time does part of the work that industrial processing can achieve much more quickly.

So, although four to six weeks might seem like a long time to wait for something that already looks perfectly finished, that curing period is an important part of making good cold-process soap. It gives each bar the time it needs to become harder, longer lasting and ready to perform as it should.

It may not be the most exciting stage of soapmaking, but it is 100% worth the wait 😉

Vicki x

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How long does soap stay in the mould before I cut it?

Day 5 of Blogtober 2026, and I’m back to answer another cutomer question. “How long does soap stay in the mould for before I unmould and cut it?”

If you follow The Soap Mine on Facebook or Instagram, you’ll have seen videos of soap being poured, and soap being cut.  But what happens in between those two events?  How long does the soap stay in the mould before it’s ready to be taken out and cut?

Multiple soap moulds full of soap
Freshly Poured Eryri Soap

Well, my usual routine these days is to pour the soap on one day, and unmould and cut it the following day.   But it wasn’t always that way.  When I first learned how to make soap I read somewhere that I should give soap a good 48hrs in the mould. So that’s what I did.  For quite a while actually.

It was only when I NEEDED to unmould sooner, for some long-forgotten reason, that I discovered that I didn’t need to wait the full 48 hours. 24 was plenty…  I guess the need had never arisen before, so I’d never tried it. Habits are strong

Nowadays I tend to make soap later on in the afternoons, between 3-6pm.  Before then I’m packing website orders, wrapping soap, completing paperwork, planning social media and so on and so forth, but the end of the afternoon is often reserved for soapmaking.  I then unmould and cut the soap the following day, before lunch, generally between 10.30 and 12.30.  (Yes, I’m quite wedded to my routines!).  

So while I’ve never investigated the absolute SOONEST I can unmould and cut my soap, I can say that my* loaves are generally ready the following morning, less than 24 hours after being poured. And quite possibly sooner.

*It’s worth noting that different formulations will have different setting-up times. Some soapmakers will unmould 48 or even 72 hours after pouring, while some will do it all within the same working day.  All part of the fun!

Of course, being ready to cut doesn’t mean it’s ready to use. There are still several weeks of curing to go, but that’s a whole other blog post. 😁

Vicki x

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Do I need an antibacterial soap?

It’s Day 4 of Blogtober, and today I thought I would answer a question I get asked quite often about antibacterial soap.

Some people seem to think that an antibacterial soap will be “stronger” or “cleaner” somehow, but for everyday washing at home? The answer is a resounding ‘No’, ordinary soap and water are enough. “Antibacterial” sounds reassuring, doesn’t it? Like your soap has had extra training and turned up wearing a tiny security badge. But labelling a soap as ‘antibacterial’ doesn’t mean that your hands, or anywhere else for that matter, will be any cleaner.

Isn’t killing bacteria the whole point?

Washing with soap and water helps remove dirt and germs from your skin so you can rinse them away. Your soap doesn’t need added antibacterial ingredients to do that job.

The NHS advises that washing your hands properly with soap and water removes dirt, viruses and bacteria, helping to stop infections spreading. Its everyday handwashing guidance calls for soap, a thorough wash, rinsing and drying, without specifying an antibacterial soap. So no, you don’t need to go hunting for the most intimidating bottle on the shelf.

Could antibacterial ingredients contribute to resistance?

There’s another reason to question whether we need them in everyday soap. Research has shown that some antibacterial ingredients, including triclosan, can favour bacteria that are less susceptible to them. Laboratory studies have also found links with resistance to certain antibiotics.

That doesn’t mean every antibacterial handwash is a tiny superbug factory. But it does raise a sensible question: why add an ingredient we don’t need, when ordinary soap and water already do the everyday job?

“Antibacterial” might sound like an upgrade, but for your bathroom sink, it’s an unnecessary one.

What really matters is how you wash

A quick splash, a vague rub of of soap and wiping your hands on your jeans isn’t quite the routine we’re aiming for. 😂 For handwashing, the NHS recommends around 20 seconds of washing, (roughly the time it takes to sing ‘Happy Birthday twice), making sure you clean your palms, the backs of your hands, between your fingers, your thumbs and your fingertips. Then rinse and dry thoroughly.

Why I don’t make antibacterial soap

My soap is made for everyday washing. I don’t add antibacterial ingredients or make antibacterial claims, because a well-used bar of ordinary soap does the job you need it to do. I’d much rather make you a lovely bar you actually enjoy using, and encourage you to wash properly.

Note – If a healthcare professional has asked you to use a particular antiseptic/antibacterial wash, follow their advice. That’s a different situation from choosing soap for your bathroom sink. But for the everyday stuff, keep it simple: soap, water and a thorough wash.

No tiny security badge required.

Vicki x

Two bars of Fresh Linen Handmade Soap
Fresh Linen Handmade Soap

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Five mistakes that make a bar of soap disappear faster

Your lovely bar of soap really should give you more than three three showers and a disappointed sigh.  If yours seems to vanish at speed, check you’re not committing any of these bar soap sins…

1. Leaving it sitting in water

That little puddle beneath your soap? It’s slowly turning your bar into mush (or snot, as we call it in the trade – you know exactly what I mean!)  Give it a dish that drains properly, rather than its own private paddling pool.

2. Parking it under the shower

Even if you’re not using it, water spraying over your soap will keep washing it away. Put it somewhere the shower can’t reach because it really doesn’t need to join you for the entire performance.

3. Using a soap dish that doesn’t actually drain

A dish can look lovely and still be spectacularly bad at its one and only job. Your soap needs to sit above any collected water, with enough airflow to dry between uses. Empty and clean the dish regularly too.

4. Keeping a whole bar in a damp soap saver bag

Those little bags are brilliant for using up slivers. But a whole bar left in a wet bag can stay damp and soften faster. I recommend collecting up all those slivers towards the ends of their lives and THEN popping them in the exfoliating bag, so that you can use up every bit.

5. Rubbing the bar for the entire wash

You don’t need to keep scrubbing away at the bar once you’ve got enough lather. Lather up your hands, a washcloth or a loofah, then put the soap down (somewhere dry!!) and get on with washing. It’s allowed a tea break.

The biggest favour you can do your soap? Let it dry properly between uses.

You’ve paid for a lovely bar. Make sure you get to enjoy it before it slides down the plughole. 😉

Vicki x

Eryri Soap Bar is a wooden soap dish

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Why I include a free sample in every order

A selection of soap samples
Soap Samples

Every Soap Mine order comes with a little soap sample tucked inside. It’s a small thing, but there are five very good reasons why I do it.

1. Because a little extra is always lovely

You’ve ordered soap. You’re expecting soap. But bonus soap? That’s got to make you happy 😁

2. Because you can’t smell a website

I can describe a fragrance until the cows come home, but there’s only so much “fresh, woody, with a hint of…” can tell you. Sometimes you just need a sniff.

3. Because your next favourite might surprise you

It’s easy to stick with the scents you know you love. A sample lets you try something different without committing to a whole bar. That one you’ve been scrolling past might actually be rather fabulous.

4. Because yes, I’d quite like you to come back

Let’s not pretend this is entirely selfless. 😂 If you love your sample and order a full-sized bar next time, we’re both happy. That’s a pretty good arrangement.

5. Because I appreciate every order

You have plenty of places to buy soap, and you’ve chosen mine. A little sample is one way of saying thank you for keeping this small business bubbling along.

Got your eye on something? Pop a request in the order notes and I’ll do my best to include that sample.

Vicki x

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Blogtober 2026? Ahh, go on then…😬

It’s 1st October, and it seems I’ve decided to do Blogtober again. This would be a perfectly sensible idea if I had lots of spare time, nothing much going on, and the kind of organised life that allows for daily blogging.

Unfortunately, none of those things are true. 😂

The last time I did Blogtober was in 2021, and for some utterly unfathomable reason I’ve decided that five years later would be an excellent time to have another go.

So, for the next 31 days, the plan is to post something here every day.

Some posts will be about soap. Some will be about running The Soap Mine. Some will probably be little glimpses of workshop life, home life, Jac, autumn in Beddgelert, things I’ve learnt, things that have gone wrong, things I’m currently obsessed with, and whatever else happens to be going on that day.

Some posts might be useful, some might be mildly interesting and some may simply prove that I remembered to write something before going to bed.

I’m deliberately not setting myself the task of writing 31 enormous, beautifully polished blog posts because that would almost certainly result in me giving up by about the 4th October.

Instead, I’m treating this as a little diary of October 2026.

Thirty-one days of soapy life and everything in between.

Let’s see how far I get. 😬

Vicki x